Install Raid for Free ✅ IOS: clik.cc/wr23C ✅ ANDROID: clik.cc/6paCt ✅ PC: clik.cc/YmjlK and get a special starter pack 💥Available only for the next 30 days!

Tip: interference-fit bushes are best put in the freezer for 30 mins before fitting...they just drop into place so no hammering. Also, best to not hit metal with metal, use a wood-block. Nice job overall.

The two outer teeth on the buckets are supposed to be crooked,pointing outwards. There central longitudinal axis is aligned with the axis of the sidewalls on the bucket,to protect sidewall from wear when you dig. They wear out instead of the bucket. Once a bit worn, their length having reduced,you swap them with the inner ones,or change them,depending on what you dig,so the wear they suffer from.

The slow operating speed & heat on the lower (retract) side of your boom main cylinder are most likely due to damage to the o-ring between the piston and the rod, or in one or more of the seal rings on the outer diameter of your piston, especially since it looks like you guys used a hammer when installing both these items during reassembly. It is incredibly easy to accidentally cut cylinder seals and o-rings during reassembly & even experienced hydraulic technicians do it more often than you would think. If a seal or o-ring is damaged, much of the pressure bypasses around the piston, so you are losing pressure that is trying to force the cylinder to extend, causing the slower movement. Since pressure and temperature have a direct relationship, the increase in pressure as the hydraulic fluid shoves through the damaged area of the seal causes an increase in temperature in that fluid, so you will notice the retract side of the cylinder is notably hotter than the extend side. If the damage to the seal or o-ring is fairly large, you can lift the boom, release the control lever and the boom will often slowly drift down a small amount before the pressure on each side of the piston equalizes causing the boom to stop moving. You can positively determine if oil bypassing the piston in the boom cylinder is the actual issue without removing the cylinder from the machine and disassembling it using the following troubleshooting procedure: Shut the machine off and function the boom control in both directions to ensure you have bled the pressure off both sides of the piston. Now remove the hose from the raise (extend) port of the main boom cylinder and cap/plug both the hydraulic hose and the fitting on the cylinder (WARNING: Do this with actual hydraulic plugs/caps as you will be applying pressure to the cylinder next). Now start the machine and move the boom control to lower the boom. If the boom cylinder does not move, or moves just a tiny bit and then stops, the piston is NOT bypassing. From the description in the video, what you will most likely see happen instead is that your boom cylinder will actually begin to extend and lift the boom, even though you are applying pressure to the lower (retract) port of the cylinder and there is not even a hose hooked to the raise (extend) port. This happens because the surface area on the extend (raise) side of the piston is larger than the surface area on the back of the piston (since the cylinder rod is installed on that side) and the oil being applied to the retract side of the piston bypasses around the damaged piston ring/seal causing the pressure on both sides to equalize. However, since there is more surface area on the extend (raise) side of the piston for the hydraulic fluid to push against, the piston (and cylinder) are forced to extend. If this is what happens, you will need to remove the boom cylinder and carefully put another seal kit in it.

Good job, guys! All it takes is good mechanical skills and some determination, which you obviously have. You and your dad make a great team!

Probably everyone has mentioned it already, but you can place those pins & bushings in a freezer for an hour and they'll drop in much easier. Also, hydraulic presses are awesome for that job. Methinks you'll need to tackle your kingpin sooner than later since its off-spec movements probably caused the cracking.

At 16:03 you will see a groove cut round the inner diameter of the eye. That is for grease so that no matter where the holes are in the bushing they all get grease.

Great work. Very much like seeing good maintenance like this. Very interesting to see it being done. Looking forward to the kingpin job...and the other building restoration work.

If the cracks continue to appear on the excavator (tired material) the next step would be to cut and weld reinforcement plates around the most stressed area. The idea is to distribute the stress and not to have any sharp edges, look for the ones installed at the factory for example. The easiest is if you know cad and order these from online laser shop etc. Really enjoy your channel & the work you do on the buildings!

Good to see peeps caring for/restoring their tools. One thing is certain, if you embark on something like this, you need a shed load of tools and the right tools too.

Next time if you need to put bushings in, get some canned air that is used for spraying dust off of computers and turn the can upside down and freeze the bushing, which will make it shrink a little bit and it will go in much smoother. Hope this helps in the future.

For as much work you'll do on vehicles and machinery, a decent shop press would probably come in handy, and is the far-better way to press bushings out and in. Very cool to see you guys tackle the job, and it looks like you're getting some great advice on the hydraulic issue you still have. I'd just add (again - apologies) that hearing protection is a wonderful thing. I wish my 53-year-old self that just got hearing aids could go back about 40 years and warn my young-self... ;) (I know you're getting a lot of safety-equipment flack)

On the main boom cylinder, if the u-cup seal (the blue one) is installed backward, it will allow oil to bypass inside the cylinder and cause loss of power and heating of the oil

lol you made that look easier than it really is. I've rebuilt cylinders and they are definitely not that easy. Nice job! I feel your pain :)

no tengo ninguna idea de mecanica, ni de hidraulica, pero me senti muy satisfecha con las reparaciones que le realizaste a esta hermosa maquina. espero cuando puedan sigan reparandola... espero que los inconvenientes que tienes con el liquido hidraulico se solucionen. saludos desde Argentina!!!

You guys are amazing, inspiring, talented and extremely entertaining. I enjoy each and everyone of your postings. My only concern is the footwear or lack there of when working around the shop and especially these heavy iron pieces. I’m hopeful you folks can see your way to a little more protective covering. As with that hydraulic oil squirting everywhere-one never knows when an accident can occur. I’m being selfish but I want to continue seeing you create and post vids for years to come. Thank you very much.

On the bucket teeth bolts put dome nuts on top of the self locking nuts so the threads do not get damaged so easy to remove next time

Those pins looked practically new compared to the pins on my track loader when I bought it. Nice to see others having "fun" working on their heavy equipment too.

I like your channel because it reminds me of my father. My father re-purposed everything he found whether given to him or just thrown away. The only time I saw my mother lose it was when he brought home old toilets from a nunnery. It was the only battle he lost to Mom. I still laugh over my dad's face as the toilets went to the junkyard.

Carl.. isn't it amazing the ways those fellas like your dad, always finds solutions. Even in things that the have never worked with. Its a pleasure to work with them and just watch the way the thing. I my shelf building a house and its a complete experience working with my dad. Great video's.keep it on ..

The slow cylinder could be from leaking past the seal, I know it's new but it could have gotten torn during the install. The heat is generated by the fluid being forced through. Also I hope you discovered that you don't need a special tool to install that lip seal. You can watch me do it here trshow.info/watch/CQQ0Mud0h28/video.html Anyhow, great video and not bad for a couple of wood workers...lol.

Good job. I love to see Dad and Lad working together. That’s why I’m such a good mechanic now. 👍

That bottle of integrity tonic was awfully small...😂 I'm greatly enjoying binge watching all your videos. I'm really glad they popped up in my feed. Your craftsmanship is beautiful!

Don't forget to use toothpaste on those bucket teeth BEFORE and AFTER operating the machine. This is very often overseen and could cause severe tooth problems later on! Check the old teeth..never been regularly brushed and already replaced at this age . Finally someone is addressing this!

For the amount of work you guys are doing you have amazingly small number of tools that are limiting to what you can do.

You can have any color matched in certain shops. They put a measuring device to it and the thing tells them the exact recipe for mixing it. That even works for metallic colors.

I’m thinking the worn and unbalanced kingpin was probably the cause of your cracks in the first place. Your repair might have been Kind of like building on top of a cracked foundation. Don’t let it go too long before you do king pin. Very neat tip to use the plastic glove fingers to cover the hydraulic hoses..many thanks for that.

The hydraulic cylinder issue could be air, you would be compressing the air instead of moving the hydraulic fluid causing slow extending of the cylinder and the air would heat up as it was compressed

Just love a guy that cleans his job up first instead of working in grease rust and oil this is how you spot everything that's broken and it makes it look new when its all finished good job guys

A good idea adding an extra fillet over the welded area, the bushes are not supposed to be lined up with the hole, you will only get grease into the bearing through one hole that way, there is a groove around the inside of the housing to carry grease to all four holes if you push the bush in, (after getting it out of the freezer) to block the entry point, and force it around the bearing, I cant believe the mast has cracked that badly after just home use. Good luck with that.

With the hydraulic cylinders being singles, I would say check the actuator settings for that circuit. Most you can adjust the pressure settings. You might have not noticed it before with all the issues and seal leaks. Another might be that when installing the seals. If the seal on the cylinder's piston has a bad lip on one side pressurized fluid can pass to the other side bleeding off pressure. Putting pressure on the other side will stop the leak as the lip (if it too isn't damaged) is now stopping any leak/flow to the other side. Most hydraulic cylinders that can be pressurized in both directions have a double lipped seal so that pressure forces the seal against the cylinder wall on the pressure side and merely slides on the other. One clue to the seal condition might be motor sound when the slide is at full retract or full extend. When a hydraulic cylinder reaches the end of travel pressure goes to max and motor sounds more labored. You can also usually hear the sound of the pressure relief valve bypassing fluid. Kind of like when you turn your steering wheel to one side limit or the other and hear the power steering pump bypass fluid. Try holding the switch down in both positions. If you don't hear a change in the pump sound when it reaches the full out position it's POSSIBLE you have a bad cylinder.

Nice Vjayo! I learned as much from the comments as watching you do the repair. How long did it take to do all that work? Was that repainted before you bought it? The paint looked good compared to the condition and wear on it?

Despite the critics I say nice job at tackling the job of maintaining your equipment even if it meant learning on the job. with some slight imperfections the machine for sure is in a much better spot then when you started. Good job gentlemen and ladies.

When you replace your lights, consider replacing with a LED bar rather than individual ones - far greater light output and lower current consumption too.

Incredible satisfying to watch - very nice work! I directly want to start doing the same on my old Kubota 🙂

That's not that bad of a repair for a used machine. You guys are really resourceful.

Lots of work for sure!. If you ever have to put brass bushings in those again like at 16:50 or so, you could also line it up and use the vice to press it in vs pounding. That can work better with a metal plate to push against vs the wood, but I saw you have some flat stock you were pounding on. That can be a more controlled insert vs pounding. That also works to put bearings onto a shaft if you take your time and line it up. I did that method when I put new bearings on my drill press restore project. Using a vice or press is much preferred vs pounding. :) Less chance of damaging the pieces as well. Though in my case I did split the wood on my wood vice and so moved it to my metal vice instead which worked better.

You’re so inspiring! Love your videos!

You dont really want the hole in in the bushing to line up with the grease port. The machined hole in the eye has a grease passage machined in it to allow it to push lube threw all the holes.

You can get spiffy little trigger things to put on spray cans to press the nozzle. Saves a lot of wear and tear on the fingertips.

It makes you appreciate things more when you put that much love in it. Great ☺️

Great work using limited tools. However, as someone who came very close to losing a toe in an industrial accident (and no, I wasn't wearing safety footwear) sandals are not safe when working around equipment. One slip and you could lose one or more toes in an instant.

I will try to give you a tip for the future considering how you were cutting the bolt. I think it would be easier if you cut the bolt and nut directly from above at the center of the bolt. That way you cut the nut into half and you can pluck out the nut to sides and then bolt becomes free. Basically what im saying is you were cutting the bolt in half when im suggesting you cut the nut in half vertically. Im not sure if you understood me :D. Also nice work on the video :) !!

Cool job guys, I bet you had lots of fun along the way. Thanks for sharing your project.

Very nice. If your hydraulic controls are cable driven, you need to check the adjustments to make sure the detent positions match the valve positions. I have a piece of JD equipment where the cable adjustment wanders and causes heating and sluggishness until readjusted. When you remove bushings without a press, it is easier to cut with a hacksaw or file so the bushing will collapse. Don't need to cut through.

Been watching your channel today. I'm a cabinet maker/ carpenter.. think the work you've been doing + the production of your videos is amazing.. Integrity tonic ha ha! 😂

I have binge watched all your videos while in quarantine. They're great! Keep them coming.

Fell off my chair laughing-digger tooth cleaning is an often overlooked detail.

I m sure with the pins and bushings replaced the machine works so much better, keeping up with maintenance , greasing , oil and filter changes is the key to getting the most work out of it for as lo g as possible . How are the track rollers ?

All those little things that crop up and stop you doing the primary job. 8 years on in Portugal and its still happening to me. Maintenance now takes up more than half of my available time. Good job!

That grinder cutting was METAL. Looked like a good way to get the aggression out.

you and your Dad are a great team!

The up cylinder being slow and the top of the cylinder getting hot probably means that you have air in the cylinder. The air is being compressed, which generates heat. Since the space the air takes up also has to be reduced as the pressure increases in the cylinder the cylinder will be slow. That may be a problem with other cylinders as well, since I didn't see you prefill the cylinders or do any bleeding.

You show that even an amateur can do big things if you are careful about the little things. I don't mind DIY done by amateurs that do their work with care and concern about the important things. It may not be done the easiest or best way, but still done well. Keep up the videos. PS I'm no hydraulic expert but judging from the old work done on the hoe I would guess they worked on the valves and messed it up.

Definitely invest in a press and freeze your bushings but either way fantastic home repair job 👌

Good job on the repairs! But I might add that those welds on the boom are not very good 😬 all that porosity will affect the strength quite abit.

I'd say your cylinder speed and temp issue is most likely a rolled seal or it tore during installation. The reason the speed is off is that it's leaking past the seal, and in turn, filling the top of the cylinder at the same time as the bottom, so it's working against itself, more or less. Going down isn't a problem since there isn't enough pressure to push oil past the seal. The same thing happened on my Volvo. It could be something else I guess, but it's exactly what happened after I rebuilt mine. I despise rebuilding cylinders, lol. I have a great hydraulic shop close to me. A friend owns it so I let him deal with it now. Saves me frustration and gives him some work, so it's a win-win as far as I'm concerned.

These slugs or outer pin anchor points should have been veed out re-welded ground back and a plate cut to fit over the outer collar and welded in place to stop stress fracture next time. This area it's obviously a week point and to strengthen it now would have save you another welding job later on down the track

You might have air in the slow cylinder, did you bleed everything after refitting? Otherwise might be some debris in the annulus. Try disconnecting the relevant hose and exercising the controls catching the oil in a bucket.

fantastic repair job. and who cares if that yellow paint matches...as long as the machine works, that's all that matters

Dear Carl and father, you did a great job, congrats 👏

May have some air trapped in that cylinder. It heats up when compressed. May need to bleed it. Could have filled it with hydraulic fluid during assembly. Messy job, but helpful. Nice work overall.

Big job, lot's of labor, just kind of surprised you didn't do anything to expand the strength of the area where the boom cracked. Expected to see some sort of doubling plates to spread the load !!!

Remember to change or check the oil in the track gearboxes. Everybody forgets to do this and they are very expensive when they fail.

These machines are meant to last generations. It is wonderful that you, your dad, and your local farmer know how to tackle such a project. I recommend your videos all the time. See you in your next video.

trapped air most likely cause for slow operating of main boom-UP cylinder, this would also explain why it is getting HOT. Didn't look like you guys bled any air from the hydraulic system when re-assembling the unit (incl hoses and piping).

Your Raid advertorial was one of the funniest and classiest bits of comedy I've ever seen. Your 'air punch' had superb comedy timing. I actually laughed out loud. I salute you - and want to get Raid at the same time. You honoured Raid's money and your own integrity at the same time using English humour. It's a wwapon only we know how to wield.

The later model of this machine, has additional plates welded around those bosses. JCB obviously knew of the problem. I hope your welder gouged out those cracks and didn't just weld over the top. He should have really cut some extra plates to make a good repair.

Next time you need to repair that top welded area around the fitting; please fit a doubling plate around the fitting over the repair and weld that on too.

You can make a serviceable press with some scrap iron and a bottle jack. A roll of teflon tape would be good, too. ;-) The welds weren't that great but perfectly OK, also, grinding is good prep for paint as long as you don't get crazy. Otherwise, the comments below are spot on. Keep up the good work --what you've done with that old barn deserves a medal.

16:15 Did you think about cooling/freezing the bushing to help fit it in?

great video and work guys - well done! really enjoyed watching - thanks for sharing!

The slow hydronic response is due to trapped air. Breed the cylinder you will hear the air escaping. Add more fluid afterwards.

Did you freeze the bushes first? Go in easy if you do. Does the boom stay fully extended for a long period if you leave it? Wondering if oil is passing the seal making it slower on the way up against load.

I would think the boom was constructed of T-100 steel it requires a preheat and usually a 11018 welding rod or wire, anything less will more than likely crack again.

Press fit or shrink fit bushing design and installation is a common method of retaining bearings by use of interference between the bushing and the bushing hole. Bushings are available in standard sizes with both inside and outside diameters surfaces finished, and are commonly available in many sizes. Typically, bushings are designed and manufactured 0.002 to 0.003 inch over nominal on outside diameter sizes for sizes 3 inches or less. Diameters greater than 3 inches, the outside diameters are designed 0.003 to 0.005 inch over the nominal size. Because interference material is built into the bushings, and the bushing is normally manufactured to tolerances of +/- .0002. The effective interference of the press fit is designed and facilitated within the target hole which the bushing is installed. The process of press or shrink fitting the bushing into the hole, causes the bearing reduce in size due to the compressive forces applied. Additionally, the material which the bushing has been pressed into distorts some as well. In general, this diameter changes are equal to 70 to 100 per cent of the amount of the material interference or fit. Unfortunately, precisely or mathematically predicting the size change due to the effective compressive forces applied during installation has not been shown to be accurate. Typical installation compression forces and effective diameter changes may be modeled or characterized by fabricating several test cases and measuring the range and variations of the actual fit. Often, bushings are designed with additional diametrical material requiring a post press fit installation machine process to accurately ream to the desired diameter. Shrink fits are facilitated by chilling the bushing using a suitable median, such as liquid nitrogen, dry ice, or placing the bushing within a freezer. Cooling down the bushing is preferred rather than heating the target housing. Normally, the bushing is of significantly less mass than the target housing, though heating the housing and simultaneously cooling the bushing is no uncommon . When a bushing or bearings are pressed into a housing, the force driving the bushing / bearing should be applied equally or uniform to the end of the bearing to avoid galling, peening or damaging the bushing / bearing. The mating surfaces of both the bushing and housing should be thoroughly cleaned and imperfections as well as burrs removed.

Great job, great video, great team work, stay safe.

When installing new hydraulic cylinder seals soak them in very hot water for a few minutes prior to installation. The heat will soften the seals and make them more pliable so they go on easier.

Hi Carl, nice to see you read and reply to comments. I'm quite cheerful btw. All respect for your carpentry and roofing skills, but why post stuff for the world to see if you can't take a bit of positive critique? I've spend decades around plant workshops and was chewed out 1st day by the foreman for going in to collect an excavator wearing veldskoen (rawhide shoes). Next day, a worker wearing thongs and helping carry a box of CAT245 teeth had the bottom fall out of the box and lost three toes. Now, put your big boy trousers on and get down to Bricomart and buy yourself and the girl with the pretty painted toe nails a pair of €19.95 safety boots!

I hope you did more tightening of the piston nut than you showed in this vid because he would be lucky to get it to 100ft.lb in the vid, get a torque spec from a dealer and advice on loctite use and redo it if need be. A piston coming loose is bad news.

Recoveri g from illness, been bingewatching your videos all afternoon. What a treat to find a new one! Thanks Carl

I’m surprised that machine had enough power to even crack the steel, ones I’ve used are too weak to dig a hole.

well done Carl and Dad. i did not see how you bled the system. from my vantage point, that's possibly the problem. do take care. cheers

I am an ignoramus regarding mechanical repairs.... but that was fascinating to watch. I hope you get the 'hot pipe' sorted....could it be air or water stuck in the pipe? Loved the 'teeth' cleaning part.... be sure and keep that attention to detail up! Hhaha xx

Please do not kill your back! It will suck bigtime when it has been damaged (all the time 24/7). Anyhow, thanks fro sharing it was informative.

17:25 Die Reparatur hält nicht lange, da gehört ein Knotenblech eingeschweißt um die punktuelle Belastung der Hülsen und der Bolzen besser aufnehmen zu können. 17:25 The repair doesn't last long, a gusset plate needs to be welded in to better absorb the point loads on the sleeves and the bolts.

Great how you and your Dad have a go at anything 👍👍

Nice job and what a stunning property. Thanks for sharing.

That hydraulic fluid spraying all over you guys was an epic scene

I realized you have to have a special vast skill set to renovate a 300yr old building..pro tip: know how to strip down and repair equipment. It's all so fascinating to watch.

Have not had time to read through all comments but the boom cylinder heating up is most certainly caused by fluid bypassing the rod piston. if it's only happening in one part of the cylinder then the cylinder is worn. Typically wear occurs at the end of the cylinder at max extension.

Back in the 1980s, a friend bought a VW Golf that had been set up for road rallying. After a few weeks he discovered the body shell was literally cracking up due to stresses that a normal road car might never see. He ended up buying a new body shell but he never got around to doing a full rally prep.

Always love your videos, very entertaining, informative and funny. Glad you're big on good dental hygiene, disappointed you didn't floss!!

If the holes in the bucket are with oversized, those teeth will wear quicker. Either drill the holes larger and weld in a piece of heavy gauge pipe the the correct ID or just weld the hole up and re-drill it.

Enjoyed your video. Keep them coming. Very informative and certainly appreciated the humor. Praying for your safety, strength, health, wisdom and success. Blessings from Texas... ☝️🙏🙌🇺🇸💪👍👉...

Maybe use a rack-and-pinion press when replacing bushings (or bearing cups, for that matter), instead of a hammer...

You should never grind those welds. I'm questioning if the welds will hold. I can see voids in some of the welds. A professional would have likely created additional plates to go around those large pin holes to strengthen the area. I think you might be doing this again in a short time depending on how hard you are on that machine.

Good to see you are keeping your teeth clean! Remember, you only have to clean the teeth you want to keep!

Wow I really like the old barn that the digger is parked in. Looks really cool

@17:05 we used to regularly repair cracked sticks and booms on site. It's a good idea to weld a gusset plate over the cracks.