Recycling waste 3D prints with a Precious Plastics shredder

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Teaching Tech

Teaching Tech

2 yıl önce

In an effort to recycle waste prints, I had previously used a garden shredder and modified paper shredder together with some success. It could only handle thin pieces, however, so I had been planning a bigger, better shredder for some time. When I found the Precious Plastics bazar, it became feasible to put one of these machines together without too much time commitment.

Driving my shredder box is a 500kg garage winch, partially disassembled. It has more than enough torque for the job. The weak link is the coupling between the two, and although I have it working for now, it’s going to need further improvement.

Performance is outstanding! I can crush pieces I designed to be bulletproof, such as 60% infill, thick perimeter parts for the MPCNC Lowrider 2. You can’t do too many pieces pieces at once but if I shred as I produce waste it will be fast and efficient. The smaller particles melt in my oven in a much faster and more uniform way. I'm planning to mill and laser cut some parts, but ultimately want to make my own filament. If you want your product featured, get in touch.

I know not many will follow this at home but I feel passionate about this project and want to do what I can to document solutions to a significant problem.

Thanks to my generous Patrons for making this project possible

Looking for an alternate solution? Check out the filament recycling program. Or the great work of Augustin Flowalistik’s Plastic Smoothie project:
Finally, CNC Kitchen made a great video on recycling prints into filament:
Part 1 of my shredding journey:

Precious plastic website:
Shredder instructions:
The shredder box I purchased from the bazar:
Garage winch I used:
Rack It modular shelving from Bunnings:

Buy quality and affordable filament from X3D. Buy 3, get 1 free and a free sample pack with every order:

Take a look around and if you like what you see, please subscribe.

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CNC Kitchen
CNC Kitchen 2 yıl önce
Oh man, you really made me want to build one of those so badly! Didn't know that the marketplace existed. Maybe I can also grab a kit there. Thanks!
Kenneth Tel
Kenneth Tel 3 aylar önce
i can see your youtube yknow
Rohan Gisiawan
Rohan Gisiawan Yıl önce
@Scavenger 177 Too high RPM, too little Torque
Scavenger 177
Scavenger 177 2 yıl önce
Maybe it's a dumb question, but cant you just use a blender. It would be a lot cheaper and safer. Just wondering???🤔
abc 2 yıl önce
Bolts are not pins and are not design for shear forces so they will always fail. If you need transfer so much torque you need these shafted to be keyed.
GeorgesHawaiianCousin 5 aylar önce
@LKLM Media i agree it shouldn't be welded. but in reality it is quite easy to get aligned by eye. I work in a machine shop and we rebuild drums on hay chopping machines quite a bit, those can't have any alignment issues or it will rip the machine to pieces, even a little bit can destroy a machine slowly from the inside out, we can do it by eye so one could get close enough to perfect.
LKLM Media
LKLM Media 5 aylar önce
@GeorgesHawaiianCousin but weld a joint strong enough on a misaligned shift and everything else along the drive line will have a potential to wear out. And if all other components are Not likely to wear, then the weld will still be the weekend point. If you cannot guarantee micromillimetre tolerance in your alignment it should be a free fit arrangement instead...but that's just my opinion...of course every setup and situation will be different.
GeorgesHawaiianCousin 5 aylar önce
@LKLM Media if you are worried about the weld breaking you definitely did not weld it together heavy enough.
Dan Gerous
Dan Gerous 10 aylar önce
@Shinku Huh?
Dan Gerous
Dan Gerous 10 aylar önce
@The Major I'm pretty sure the point is to make it so he can break it down for transportation.
Jason M
Jason M 2 yıl önce
given the torque of that motor it may be worth bolting the metal frame underneath the mdf sheet so that the force is distributed over more area instead of the 5mm or so around each mounting bolt
Xavier Ancarno
Xavier Ancarno 2 yıl önce
I was about to type this. Thanks 🙏
toxaq 2 yıl önce
The reason the coupler is strong enough in the tutorial video is that they've flattened off the hardened steel to face the allen key. The other options are the same as the key broach that your original lift mount used. You've still got the key in there. You could shorten the output shaft of your motor and use the key broach but then you still need something at the other end. Is it broached too? If not you're then down to potentially flattening it off or get an actual adaptor that will be considerably thicker than the 20mm ID pipe you're using. "Rigid shaft coupling" might also help with your google-fu to find something which can spread the load across the shaft if it isn't broached.
TacticalBBQSauce Aylar önce
Yeah, coupler is a waste. Easy enough to make your own
Azrudi 4 aylar önce
Thanks. Learning something new. Now to Google for the meaning of broached
Melodie Murphy-Kelly
Melodie Murphy-Kelly 2 yıl önce
Great video! Thanks for sharing the results, I built that shredder box and while we know it is a beast it is great to know it stood up so well! Some of the issues with your coupling setup are related to the length of your output shaft (shorter means less movement) and the timber mounting (steel mountings reduce movement). We use jaw couplings with rubber spider and a keyway (grub screw fittings cant cope) and so far, so good ;)
Kyle Newsome
Kyle Newsome Yıl önce
Great work and very inspiring. Nice work with the hopper design. I’m motivated enough to try building one myself now and am starting the research. If you have any updates on the coupling solution I’d love to hear about them.
Chris Dub
Chris Dub 2 yıl önce
Great video, thanks for posting. I am also wanting to follow the recycling path of failed 3D prints and plastic in general. I have purchased a shredder but was waiting for the right motor to become available. Very happy to see your version work so well. Hopefully you can come up with a reliable coupler.
Dwayne Arnett
Dwayne Arnett 2 yıl önce
Loved the video! I've worked on industrial size shredder for plastic and there to the couplers where the weak link, they used 4 bolt flanges with a taper pin through the shaft on each side as the sacrificial part. Thanks for the great video 👍
Kobrar44 3 aylar önce
One thing I would love to see would be a cover-switch, as in a safety cover for the shredding mechanism as it will chew anything that might fall inside, which turns on the shreedder when you put it into place. Just like that, it doesn't work when its unsafe. It would take care of the mess too.
MisterFixIt1952 2 yıl önce
Great video. I was planning on making a plastic shredder for my kitchen plastic waste and this video probably saved me a lot of trial and error. One thing you did not include in your hopper is a safety cutout switch. Any equipment capable of removing a body part, accidently, should have a safety switch that prevents accidental operation unless all openings are closed. Not only is this a legal requirement for machinery but it is good common sense, especially if there are children around. That shredder is definitely an arm eater. Keep up the good work.
TacticalBBQSauce Aylar önce
While you have a point, common sense and not letting idiots who touch everything into your workshop goes a long way. Show me a single wood worker that has the safety guards on their saws etc. If your child loses a hand in your plastic shredder, maybe you shouldn't have been letting them play with it in the first place, it's not a toy.
WyoNoob 2 yıl önce
Love the channel I've got a ton of good info from you. Something you might look into is a hydraulic coupler. When it jams it won't be a sudden stop for the motor and would give you a little leeway
Ron Oestmann
Ron Oestmann 2 yıl önce
A couple suggestions for version 2: 1. Use a rigid steel base for the shredder and motor. On the MDF base, there's a lot of twisting between the two exasperating the coupling failure. Align the shafts properly. 2. Add a VFD to control the speed and reverse the shredder when jammed. 3. Using torque/power feedback from the VFD, add some control to automatically reverse the shredder. 4. As suggested in the comments, add an interlocking safety circuit to those "access" panels. Accidents happen and you probably still want all of your fingers. 5. Figure out the maximum torque and get a flexible coupling suited to the task. I might suggest a Falk steel-flex grid coupling. May need to machine those shafts to accept a key or better yet, a splined connection. The shaft key and keyseat will be your weak point. That is where you need to set the torque limiting below. There is a lot of torque from that repurposed winch. You've inspired me to design a build one myself. I'd be using it for the same purpose, 3D printed plastic recycling. Thanks!
John O'Shaughnessy
John O'Shaughnessy 2 yıl önce
Well done! While I look forward to the home extrusion setup, I get the sense the consistent filament diameter is very challenging. It would be GREAT if you could take the bag of shredded plastic bits to a recycler, but at least here in the US, I know they won’t take them with our standard home recycling service.
Bill MacFarland
Bill MacFarland 6 aylar önce
Thank you for the video, Michael. What did it take to form the shredded plastic into a sheet? I assume you baked them in an oven?
twinuts333 2 yıl önce
Having built the precious plastic shredder myself, we had the same coupling issues. As for the coupler, have a look at HRC couplers. Can be pricy, made of cast iron, but it will withstand the force. As for the arbors, you can combine some solutions : keys, milling a flat part, locking nuts, pression screws... We also killed m4 m6 and m8 bolts before giving up and going all the way to the HRC cast iron coupler. Good luck with your machine :)
matt anderson
matt anderson 2 yıl önce
Great video! Really enjoyed watching how you worked through the problems you were having
Ben Baron
Ben Baron 2 yıl önce
Thanks for the great content! I'm considering getting a winch motor like you have and was wondering how it held up after these months? Are you still happy with that motor for the shredder?
Jeff Banman
Jeff Banman 11 aylar önce
I would also like to know how it has held up and if it could shred for an hour straight without heating up too much.
arthur1129 2 yıl önce
I suggest you use gears to transfer torque instead of a coupler. But make sure the gears are close to the motor end of the shafts to avoid deflection. You'll get an even better result with something like a 2:1 or 4:1 gear ratio. Metal gears of course.
GlobalIdiot101 2 yıl önce
Guess the motor with the gearbox looked very appealing after all that effort he put into it.
Dorian McCarthy
Dorian McCarthy 2 yıl önce
For increasing the torque handling of the coupling: A good compromise between keyed shafts (Difficult for a hobbyist to produce accurately) and bolts (Poor at shear strength in this design) is to machine/grind some flats on the sides of the coupling where the bolts contact the shaft. Should be a lot nicer to the bolts, rather than having the bolts going through the shaft and having to withstand considerable shear strength. Also, try to use high tensile bolts, they should take more of a battering than mild steel.
Rumbaar Gaming
Rumbaar Gaming 2 yıl önce
FYI, for the 1000kg rating you need to use the "Rack it" shelve support braces that go under the MDF. Without, the rating is the max of the break point of the MDF.
chris newton
chris newton Yıl önce
Great video as usual. Find your videos really useful. Hopefully i can show some support on on the engineering side. looking at the video I can't tell if the motor is bolted down to the desk. Some movement in the motor could cause some miss alignment issues which could compound the issue with torturing couplers. With that much torque could it not be better to use a key rather than a bolt? I notice that the original shaft has a key to run the winch bobbin
Nicolas Dobricic
Nicolas Dobricic 2 yıl önce
Hi, as others have said your best bet for the coupling between the motor and shredder would be to get a key way or flat machined in. It might be worth trying to put some gritty material in that flex connector such as diamond or carbide lapping paste to increase the friction between the shaft and coupler. As a side note, if you do end up getting a key way machined in get them to remove the section that you've drilled a hole in as it will most likely be your next failure point.
Trapperdad 1
Trapperdad 1 2 yıl önce
Very cool to see a fellow precious plastic builder. Awesome idea to use a winch assembly.
nitnoid24 2 yıl önce
Just wondering if you thought a hand crank might work instead of the motor? That way, you can forward and reverse at will. Depending on how much waste plastic you have, probably wouldn't take too much effort.
Franz Rupert
Franz Rupert 2 yıl önce
The shredder really looks awesome!
Get Rail3d
Get Rail3d 2 yıl önce
You need to implement a woodruff key into your coupler setup for ultimate reliability, and largest shear plane. Thats how industrial applications are setup.
Buhda Punk
Buhda Punk 7 aylar önce
I would consider raising the RPM and gaining a little momentum. I assume there are bearings in the Shredder unit itself to handle far higher RPM. 2500-3500 with a Fly wheels should be able to shred aluminum cans and PET bottles in just a few seconds.
LV_Woodturner 2 yıl önce
Very interesting. I am interested if the high tensile bolts hold up. You may need keyed shafts or as others mentioned gears to reduce the force on each shaft. Dave.
None Biz
None Biz 2 yıl önce
I love precious plastic, and I think their extruders are great... but instead of their shredder, I would buy a "plastic granulator". It's not much more than their "kit" and will last much longer. Also, the Wellzoom filament extruder is decent but they all seem to take a long time to "dial in" to produce decent filament. I.e. make many spools in a row to get ones of decent quality.
Rod Snyder
Rod Snyder 2 yıl önce
Awesome! looking forward to the filament extruder. B-)
Korishan 2 yıl önce
For the coupling, use a piece of black pipe steel. It's heavy duty steel used in plumbing. It's cheap, but strong. Or you could use piece of extruded aliminium that is several mm thick. That pipe you used is way too thin for the torque this motor puts out.
John Strand
John Strand 2 yıl önce
Now that you have it all shredded, what are your plans for the plastic? I think the extruder idea is a good one, There might be a lot of people out there waiting for that next step. Thanks for the video!
AirSafe 2 yıl önce
For the extruder, I've made some research of accessible filament extruders, and what I've come across is the lyman filament extruders. The dude has built a lot of versions when i last checked. I think the latest version is V6. He has the process all documented (and pretty well documented, at that), for all of his versions of the extruder. It's all on thingiverse IIRC. Thank you for all the entertainment and just overall great tutorials. My ender 3 wouldn't be even close to what it is right now without your videos.
A S Yıl önce
I built one 5kg per hour filament extruder, here's the overview:
Shane Hart
Shane Hart 2 yıl önce
A v6. Yes. I herd it awsum. I luv even a v2// till got $$ for a v6.
deth Yıl önce
12:17 The reason it worked in the original design video you referenced, is because they used a keyed shaft. Not bolts that are not designed to deal with shear.
claws61821 2 yıl önce
Honestly been considering trying to print one up of similar size in pieces and gear down a hobby motor to do the work, but idk if the plastic tines would hold up well enough to the plastic waste lol The official PP designs all seem more expensive and less robust than they should be somehow, and while I'd love to see some stuff on the extruder, it bugs me way too much that they use a single auger bit instead of casting a pair (or more) of properly stepped screws out of a low temp cheap metal or cement or something.
Eric Fabinger
Eric Fabinger 2 yıl önce
Great idea and video. With the long shaft on the motor can't you use that right into the shredder box instead of the shaft that is there?
David Richards
David Richards Yıl önce
Hi. Since the release of this video, have you settled with this method of recycling your old 3D prints, and do you know of any other new techniques for doing the same thing? I've still got 3yrs worth of PLA to recycle. if I don't find a simple and cheap method, it's going to be a shame just to put it all out with the general rubbish because it's mounting up excessively. Your feedback would be appreciated. Thanks.
iTeerRex 2 yıl önce
Congrats on the shredder, its a beast. Did you ever try vacu-forming these sheets? I'm thinking the melting has to be very good for it to work for vacu-forming.
iTeerRex 2 yıl önce
Ah, In your first video on recycling you mentioned you were gona try vacu-forming it, so i was wondering.
Teaching Tech
Teaching Tech 2 yıl önce
I have a vacuum former I made in the garage but my sheets would need to be a lot thinner for it. Planning to try it at some stage.
Dojo Mats - Sunny
Dojo Mats - Sunny Yıl önce
hi, i've got a question for you. why cant you apply heat in the chamber (hair dryer etc) during the shredding, so at least the surface is malleable for it to shred easier? i mean, the extra head shouldnt affect the motor part of the system
Kioshi Ootori
Kioshi Ootori 2 yıl önce
Could add an IR beam switch + timed relay, basically automatically turning it off after it shreds the load + whatever amount of extra time you want
Robert Reinman
Robert Reinman 20 gün önce
Hi Mike ! I am a retired Tool, Die , Mold Maker. What you really need for a coupling is a GEAR COUPLING! This will never fail you. The people that told you to use that rubber coupling, and then through bolt in shaft “FIX” is not the answer! Also, cut off the 20 mm ends of those shafts, and use the larger shaft diameters that you have Couplings can be ordered with dissimilar diameters if required. This will be a robust change from what you are doing. * Love your Channel! I also learned a lot!.
Loukas K.
Loukas K. 2 yıl önce
I would love if you'd do a video about the extrusion machine as well since it would be a nice all-in-one kit
KAT Yıl önce
@Teaching Tech re:3D have done it
A S Yıl önce
@None Biz checkout my extruder: , it's easy filament and you can get 0.03mm tolerance even without any feedback loop and better if you've closed loop system.
Eric Lotze
Eric Lotze Yıl önce
@Teaching Tech Here is a fully open source design for a dedicated filament maker and winder:
None Biz
None Biz 2 yıl önce
​@Teaching Tech Precious plastic extruders put out too much material, and is better for injection molding type setups... The Wellzoom extruders work pretty well though...
Ben C
Ben C 2 yıl önce
@Teaching Tech do u have your modified firmware that you used on the ender 3 for the BLTouch and the filament runout sensor that you used in this video
Sebastian Rodriguez
Sebastian Rodriguez 8 aylar önce
You are amazing bro! I was getting a lot of trouble with motors until a saw your video! Thanks and saludos desde argentina!
Franz Rupert
Franz Rupert 2 yıl önce
I'd also love a video on the extruder they offer!
Racoon 2 yıl önce
Cut the shaft back shorter and use the keyway. You should be able to find a hub to fit it and this will stop the flex and give you a better connection.
EnraEnerato 2 yıl önce
Regarding the Motor, you could've gotten yourself a small geabox, or a torque multiplier if the winch solution wasn't viable. As for the coupling a viable "quick and dirty solution" is using something like this instead (both are 350Nm torque that ought to do the job, 2 screws mean mor clamping force): Part-No. : 23050-1200 Part-No. : 23052-1200 The best solution of course would be to saw the shaft of to a shorter lenght, dismantle your cutting/crushing unit and send of it's shaft for a keyway (?) milling then use a coupling that uses keyways, that would be nearly undefeatable. But seing your solution, as an industrial mechanic now studying engineering I have to say: "Don't use an M4 screw! If you have to use this solution use a matching pin!" The shacking etc. means not enough power, you realy should look around for a cheap geabox and think about using said keyway solution, just look at this video and the first example you showed to us, the motors are beasts, getting yourself a gearbox (I recon 1:5 maybe 1:10) should do the trick. Also IF you do this use the end of the shaft (crusher unit) you haven't "violated" yet, it's safer and will hold guaranteed unlike the the end with bolt holes in it. And the solution in the tutorial you showed us should be more then enough to crush all the stuff you used for the demonstration, your coupling was just insuffiant, take that from an industrial mechanic now studying engineering.
Zachary C
Zachary C 2 yıl önce
Two words to fix your coupling issue. Key way. Either cut one with your cnc or have one cut by a machinist and get a keyed coupling from an industrial supply place.
Kerim Isam
Kerim Isam 2 yıl önce
Well this is the easiest part of recycling. It'll be interesting only when a useable filament is reproduced
Michael Bujaki
Michael Bujaki Yıl önce
I know. I made a giant blender that minces the plastic rather well, but I have yet to succeed in extruding plastic.
Balthazar Naylor
Balthazar Naylor 2 yıl önce
If the torque on the motor isn’t enough you can always get a gear reducer and slap that on your shaft. With something like 1:3 you won’t have any trouble grinding any plastic you can find, or even wood. And also, instead of bolts, use heat treated thick pins instead, they are made for these types of work and won’t break as easily.
james ross
james ross Yıl önce
In the video at the end (12.17 in the vid) when it shows the original coupler, it looks like they had taken a grinder and flattened one side of the shaft so it would be the shape of the letter D, tool steel coupler and grade 8 bolt should hold up pretty good. If you knew someone at a tool shop and they had a broach tool to cut a key way into both shafts would be the best bet for success. Just a thought.
OU812 2 yıl önce
I would be more efficient to build a 2 stage shredder. 1st stage would shred into larger bits but would put a lot less strain on the coupling, motor, etc. The 2nd stage would take the 1st stage bits and grind them to final size. The drawback is this would be more complicated to achieve.
The Major
The Major 2 yıl önce
Not by much... I mean he could use gearing for that. It's not that difficult.
Paul Riedlinger
Paul Riedlinger 2 yıl önce
It's as if we read each others minds! I did the exact same thing....same style of hoist motor, exact same initial coupling (with similar results) and same solution with a large bolt. If I could attach a photo you would laugh at the similarities. The only difference is I am in Canada so my build came in about 1/2 of yours in cost. I have a Filustruder assembled and ready to try making my own recycled filament. Cheers!
thecrazy8888 Yıl önce
Their coupling is 10 times stronger than anything you've used and is keyed. It's machined, most likely hardened and made with proper materials. Yours was Chinese grade aluminum and mild steel. Now you know.
Zachary 3D Prints
Zachary 3D Prints 2 yıl önce
Hey Michael, this was a very good video about shredding failed prints! Now find a way to melt it and make it into a filament
Artie M
Artie M 2 yıl önce
At 4:11 in the video you can see a rectangular chunk of metal set into a slot machined into the shredder shaft. A similar slot is present in the spool. And that rectangular chunk of metal that ties the spool to the shaft is the drive key. The drive key not only couples the two pieces together, so they rotate without a lot of play, but the drive key is a deliberate point of failure -- the drive key can shear (fail) before either of the two elements the drive key couples together are destroyed. Think of a big motor in a boat, and a shaft with a propeller on it. If you have a really rigid coupling between the output shaft of the motor and the prop shaft, if the prop binds up, something is going to get destroyed -- either the prop or the motor. Have the two shafts coupled using a drive key that's of a metal deliberately chosen to be not as strong as the shafts, if the prop binds up, the drive key will (hopefully) shear before the motor or the prop get destroyed. Drive keys are easier and less expensive to replace than motors or props.
Teaching Tech
Teaching Tech 2 yıl önce
I'd love to have a key but I don't have a way to machine a keyway at this stage. Thanks for the detailed post.
FunDumbMental 2 yıl önce
Dave Hakkens and the precious plastics crew do amazing work.
Ryden Soko
Ryden Soko Yıl önce
You could probably repurpose the spool for the steel toe table as a coupler for the shafts since it may have came keyed for the winch motor.
Ryan Steventon
Ryan Steventon Yıl önce
I just so happened to have made this same setup, same shredder, same motor, different brand name, but it's identical, except my gearbox shaft is 18mm hexagonal. I welded a socket onto the shredder shaft, then used an 18mm deep socket on the gearbox which I didn't weld on, but let float. I then used a 1/2 inch drive square to connect the two sockets together. This has enough wiggle to handle the two shafts not being in perfect alignment (they're very close though, may 1/2mm out) I've managed to stall the motor, which I think is putting out around 300Nm of torque after the gearbox and the sockets are fine.
unggah ulang
unggah ulang 2 yıl önce
What application do you use to edit 3D images, which can cut or paste parts of an image?
Spike 2 yıl önce
Wow! That really is a beast. The coupler could be made from thicker 'tube' and high tensile pins perhaps. Maybe some interlock switches on the doors, just to be safe.
Spike 2 yıl önce
@My Name I confess, it made me wince a bit too. Obviously Michael is very safety conscious and knows what he's doing, but it never hurts to be sure.
My Name
My Name 2 yıl önce
DEFINITELY some interlock switches on those doors! I looked at that swing-in side panel when he pushed it in and felt sick to my stomach. LOL.
Dave G.
Dave G. 10 aylar önce
I like it how pretty much every step of the way it was like "Luckily it was just the right fit!" Man, Australia really is upside-down.
Asger Vestbjerg
Asger Vestbjerg 2 yıl önce
Wow, well done!!! Thanks for sharing :-)
Wobblybob2004 2 yıl önce
I would recommend you look for a 'taper lock' coupling for those shafts. Something like this. They will clamp on to a plain shaft and wont ever let go. (if there torqued down enough) It won't be cheap but it won't need and finessing once it's on. Also... Jig saw? Table saw? You need a large format CNC mach.... oh.
SinnerD2010 Yıl önce
Honestly having the fail point at the coupler is the smart idea, its the cheapest, easiest, and most accessible point on the contraption. If you direct drive mount like the OP vid shows one of the two shafts will ultimately fail, if not the motors internals will go first. might last longer than the couplers, but I'm pretty sure couplers are much cheaper replace cost than either of those devices. I'd suggest a stronger flex coupler with more than just tension mounting, gonna be your best bet, just remember its the desired fail point. and not off the shelf bolts, bolt weren't designed for lateral shearing, actually the weakest point of a bolt. you'll want solid steel pins. P.S. with that hopper design, I really hope you put a deadman switch well outside the reach of that machine, I cringed when you stuck your hand in it...ewwww
Steven Denny
Steven Denny 2 yıl önce
You might want to add a kill switch to the side doors for when you have your hand in that death machine
QBziZ 9 aylar önce
Very necessary. The problem is not so much hands as hair or clothing. Maybe not even yours, just some visitor who is peeking inside.
Joseph Reese
Joseph Reese Yıl önce
The don't be an idiot factor should tell a person to UNPLUG, AND DISCHARGE MOTOR CAPS BEFORE DOING ANY WORK. Anyone STUPID enough to not take that precaution is asking for a bad time. Simply unplugging is not always acceptable as some high torque motors have a high discharge starter cap in or on them. This can cause a spontaneous cog in the motor even when unplugged. Short the motor after unplugging any high torque device.
Scott Willis
Scott Willis Yıl önce
AND always unplug it, for when the kill switch gets bumped or fails ON. Sure it's inconvenient, as are emergency room visits... The problem with "don't be an idiot" is the texting while driving effect: when we're focused on something else and only a small part of our attention is available, only a small part of our intelligence is available and we do stupid things. With a shredder, it only takes once and you're learning to do without part of your hand. Depending on how bad it is (fingertip cut vs. it got a good grip on multiple fingers, then stalled).
Shinku Yıl önce
@Envious_____ Accidents don't discriminate by intelligence.
Envious_____ Yıl önce
or just dont be an idiot
Nenea Me
Nenea Me Yıl önce
It's amazing what you're trying to accomplish here. Try to collect plastic each on its own color. Also I'm thinking at juice plastic bottles as Pepsi, Cola or water plastic bottles can be transformed in filaments. Perhaps the way of printing filaments should be rethought so that the printer no longer has problems with printing depending on the type of filament (PLA, ABS ...). In this way you can recycle any type of plastic... It would be something amazing if something like this could be achieved.
1968CudaGuy Yıl önce
Very nice!! I'm with several other commenters that perhaps you should have kill switches on any access door to that grinder. Especially if there are children in the house.
Kyle Roberts
Kyle Roberts 2 yıl önce
have you tried using a planetary gear reduction type box in line that may put less stress on the whole driveline
Paul Riedlinger
Paul Riedlinger 2 yıl önce
It's as if we read each others minds! I did the exact same thing....same style of hoist motor, exact same initial coupling (with similar results) and same solution with a large bolt. If I could attach a photo you would laugh at the similarities. The only difference is I am in Canada so my build came in about 1/2 of yours in cost. I have a Filustruder assembled and ready to try making my own recycled filament. Cheers!
Eugene Weltzer II
Eugene Weltzer II 9 aylar önce
I'm not experienced, but my first thought to recycle plastics would be to apply just enough heat to soften and use an auger to extrude out any general shape... Like a meat grinder.
Greg G
Greg G 2 yıl önce
Is the shaft on the shredder cut for a key? If so, run 2 sprockets and a chain, or 4 sprockets and 2 chains.
cgwworldministries Yıl önce
You want to use hardened steel dowel pins and a hardened steel coupler, or weld the shafts together with thermite.
Bert Pieters
Bert Pieters Yıl önce
Nice Michael for looking at this, I'm looking forward to you making filament also!
Matt Royce
Matt Royce 2 yıl önce
i feel like a blend tec blender would work pretty well
andreask87 2 yıl önce
Regarding the coupling: How about using simple engineering methods to calculate the output torque of the motor/gearbox and then choose a properly sized coupling? The first coulping you had wasn't a bad idea per se, but seems way to small (only 2x the diamater of the shafts) although it might have had the proper bore size. Lets estimate the motor really can lift 500kg with that winch, that equals to ~4900 N of force. It looks like theres a radius of around 60-70 mm on the cable-reel when its fully loaded --> that equals to a torque off around 4900 N* 0,07 m = 343 Nm for a rough estimate (not taking any safety factors or possible torque-peaks of the electric motor into consideration). Looking on a website like misumi for a similar style coupling with this kind of torque rating, a proper sized coupler should have at least a diamater of 80 - 100 mm. However, next thing you should ask yourself is, if you really want all that torque to be transfered and the coupling not fail? If the coupling does not fail, the fixturing of gearbox or the shredder itself might and then you suddenly have something with a lot more mass rotating around. For safety reasons a properly sized and adjustable slipping/safety clutch might be the needed, but that also might get pricey really fast. Keep yourself safe, so you can keep making vids ;)
RomanoProductions 2 yıl önce
I guess the coupler can fail, it is cheap, it is much like a fuse in an electrical device. Better the coupler to fail than the other parts, pretty right 💟
John Whitty
John Whitty Yıl önce
Use heavy tube as a coupler 5mm wall. make it much much longer as it wont kink as easy. Use three 6mm or 8mm stainless bolts 1 on the shredder shaft and 2 on the motor shaft not nearer than 1inch from end of shafts or tube.
SpotOn Cam
SpotOn Cam 2 yıl önce
You should also buy or make filament extruder using this same motor
John David Dunson
John David Dunson 10 aylar önce
you could add an arduino or something as a control board, along with some sort of rotational sensor, then program the arduino to reverse for a second then continue forward when it senses the shaft stall. boom, automatic shredding even on really tough pieces. you could also give it a shut off timer, so in addition to simple on/off, you could just hit a button to set it going and it'll shred for some amount of time. maybe have it reset the timer whenever it senses the rpm go down.
skaltura 2 yıl önce
Filastruder is quite decent and low cost for making filament :) Remember to get some virgin materials too, 100% recycled is not the best way to go.
Marco Toselli
Marco Toselli 2 yıl önce
Interesting! Unfortunately the cost is a little steep, with that kind of money we can get roughly 50 kg of brand new pla of the color we choose. Another problem is dealing with more than one material if we print with PETG and ABS too... But it would be cool to recycle other plastic waste to turn into filament! The clear PET of bottles may be cool to print!
gothmaniow 2 yıl önce
i would like to see how those small shreds would work with the new 3DEVO composer DIY filament creator ;)
Mark Giblin
Mark Giblin Yıl önce
Your mistake... Not using gears. Had you used a large diameter drive on the shredder and a smaller gear on the other and you ramp up the torque and increase the motor speed that you use. It would then allow you to mount the motor to the side of the shredder so that the shredder frame forms a chassis that is rigid and inflexible.
Skinnyfish 2 yıl önce
Frustrated with a failed print, "Shred it" lol. Great video, I want one : ).
Piers 2 yıl önce
What are is the PC roof sheeting usually used for? I just can't think what it would be for with it being so thin - the only type of roofing plastic here that is made from thin plastic is the corrugated kind.
Markus von Staden
Markus von Staden 2 yıl önce
This is extremly interesting. Too bad it is so expensive. I melted all my Waste in a pot, so that I get 3 to 5cm thick disks. This saves a lot of space. My plan is, to cut molds out of aluminium with my MPCNC, that I am currently building. Then I want to shred the Disks (I don't know how yet, they are way stronger than I expected) and use them to 'Injection mold'. Still got a lot of tinkering ahead....
opino72 Yıl önce
Have you made progress on making your own filament?
dgretlein Yıl önce
Your Senna jacket is my favorite. I’m very interested in an extruded solution as well. Cheers
Raul M.
Raul M. 2 yıl önce
It's Cool to see the Makers 'own-up' to #Recycling, as it is one of the Other downsides of Commercial Mass Production.
Eclipseslayer98 10 aylar önce
12:17 Huh, I guess a coupler that looks to be about 100 times stronger than yours can only crush milk bottles.
Nic Pottier
Nic Pottier 2 yıl önce
Woot, thanks for the shoutout! :) Can't wait to see the extruder side of things, love love this project!
o0julek0o Yıl önce
Ok, so now what do you do with the plastic? I haven't really seen very reliable 'melters' and that replay service is ok I guess, but less than ideal
Akinsoji Otuyelu
Akinsoji Otuyelu 2 yıl önce
The coupling distance between the shredder and the motor too wide creating twist on the coupled shafts (shear torque). Reduce the gap, bring them closer and you get robust torque.
Additive Alex
Additive Alex 2 yıl önce
This guy knows. Also pins or keyed shaft.
Andrey Barkov
Andrey Barkov Yıl önce
Maybe instead of using a coupler you could get the 2 pieces welded together?
Andre Oliveira
Andre Oliveira 2 yıl önce
Haven't finished watching the entire video just yet, but a thumbs up and a comment for the SHEAR effort on this video!
LSE LLC (Lumanet Solar Energy LLC)
LSE LLC (Lumanet Solar Energy LLC) 9 aylar önce
Use some Gears so on your motor use a gear on the shaft's and a chain in between this way you can change your gear ratio and get a lot more force transferred to the shredder.
Nunya Business
Nunya Business 2 yıl önce
What is it with peeling plastic? You, Joel, Tom S, are you all into ASMR? Lol, but thanks for your channel. You and your fellow Aussie Angus (along with Joel the 3D Printing Nerd, Tom Sanleder, et al) are incredibly thorough while being quite interesting.
Nunya Business
Nunya Business 2 yıl önce
Jeff Banman
Jeff Banman 11 aylar önce
Just wondering how the motor would respond to regular shredding, like milk jugs and the like? I’m thinking if the motor was running for an hour straight. Thanks
EPOC 16 2 yıl önce
Keyed shaft with a machined coupler designed for that sized keyed shaft will fix your issues. You should be able to find proper couplers for keyed shafts online.
middleclasspoor 2 yıl önce
Any reason you can't just weld the two shafts together?
bill jackson
bill jackson Yıl önce
Could a selection of gearbox parts ,the gears,be used to make a plastic shredder?
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