For 30 years I thought you were meant to rush into every job, cut corners and ignore the potential issues 2 yrs down the line🤭. Your steady and meticulous work is great to watch and a good lesson.

Nicely done. Others have mentioned the desirability of geotextile wrap and of siting the pipe at the base of the trench. My observation would be that the soakaway may prove a bit small for the area being drained, and a way to see this would be to sink a vertical piece of perforated soil pipe into it to its base. Lifting a cap placed over the top would allow you to see the water level. A refinement would be to add a float inside the pipe with a rod set into it, cut to a length that it just protrudes through a hole in the cap when the soakaway is empty. The rod will then rise up out of the hole as the soakaway fills to give a readily visible gauge. And your observations of this will tell you when the pipe is silting up.

This might clog up eventually as your meant to use a membrane to seperate the clay from the gravel. The clay will be allowed to mix with the gravel over time and will block the water from reaching the pipe. It was lot of hard work. I hope it stays good for you.

couple things wrong to know for next time, the rock creating the slope at the bottom of the ditch do nothing as the clay is what the water will run on, so basically the ditch has to fill up before it runs away instead of following a slope. Next is you need drain cloth or weedmat encasing the rock and pipe otherwise it will all just eventually fill with silt and dirt and do nothing.

As many have pointed it out, the fine sediment will collect at the bottom reducing the flow over time, but most importantly, the plant/tree roots will clog it even faster by seeking the lower water table. But hey, it will do the job for some time.

Really enjoying your videos. Thank you! The only thing I would have done differently on your French drain would be the addition of drainage fabric first in your trench, then place your grade drainage gravel, then the perforated pipe cover with gravel, then fold over the fabric like a burito (shout out to the French drain guy, great videos too), then top with finished stone, soil or what ever. This will keep your drainage stone from sitting in. Never use a ”socked” pipe. Keep up the great videos. Editing and presentation is amazing.

Your finished work is so sympathetic to the region where you are. Thank you for showing us all your considerable and pragmatic skill.

Well done Mr Rogers. There is a recommend plumbing fall for drainage pipe. Both too much fall or too fall little affects silting. The water needs to travel at a rate that carries silt with it. It's ideal to work within those parameters but often the contour determines what can be done. I thought you were doing this with your string line. Anyway great work. I wish I owned a digger!

Given it's been two years, perhaps a follow up? I'm curious on how the water worked it's way out of the bottom of the hill. It seems to me that the water would collect and be directed to the bottom, but without anyplace for it to go, it would percolate up thru the dirt and onto the road.

I enjoy your videos immensely. You are a superb craftsman. I wish to give you a million thanks for: NO MUSIC! It truly has become the bane of TRshow.

your videos are so interesting. :) so nice to see ppl put the work into to do things right. esp repairs.

Super vidéo d'explication pour la réalisation d'un drain longeant la route. La prise en compte des moments répétitifs en mettant en place des accélérations et passage un peu lassant est une très bonne idée afin de rester objectif et garder ainsi le public. Sinon, pour la partie technique de réalisation, il aurait été préférable pour perdurer la durée d'utilisation du drain, de mettre en place un géotextile autour du fourreau pour éviter d'obstruer les percements et permettre de drainer au maximum pour une meilleure efficacité et sur une plus longue durée de vie... continue tes vidéos, c'est super... 😁😉

I always look forward to your videos and you never disapoint . Thank you .

Thank you for sharing these wonderful videos of your very expertly done work on ( what appears to be ) an old Belgian or French Farm house. What made me realize most in this series is that we were "...not in Kansas any more Toto...." was your digging the trench for the French Drain. I believe it was 5 or 6 inches ( 15 Centimeters ) of top soil, and the BAM a solid mass of absolutely pure ceramic grade clay. In my part of the world ( Pacific Northwest USA ) the average Basalt Jory topsoil is 60+ inches ( 150 Centimeters ). This creates a completely different water abortion issue that you do not have there. Thankfully you have a helpful and trusted Dog Helper to manage the work process.

Here's an old farmer's trick for finding level over long distances. I'll use your ditch as an example. Get a sufficient length of clear plastic hose (1/2" or 5/8" diameter is large enough). Affix one end of the hose to the top of the stake at the top end of the ditch. String the hose to the stake at the bottom end of the ditch, and affix the hose to the top of the stake. Then fill the hose with water until the hose is nearly full. Since water levels itself, simply mark both stakes even with the water level in the hose. Voila -- perfectly leveled marks on the two stakes.

That was a really big job . . . hope it helps 🙁 Always enjoy your channel and will check out your gate video next! Thanks & thumbs up 👍

Hard work, Carl! .-) But I'm puzzled: why didn't you redirect the rainwater, using the same pipe, to an underground water tank - which you ought to build!- a pond, or the septic tank? In summer that water will become useful. Water is after all a commodity.

Can you do a tour of the property? It would be nice to see what the buildings you have and their layout

Great job-water is the first enemy of any builder) only one question moment-it is possible that additional water will cause bad affection on road layers under asphalt - at the place where you ended up your tube... time will show! Good luck!

I was just sitting here thinking about how much of a hassle this project would have been here in the US. Start with getting drawings done and certified by an engineer. Get permission from the County to terminate your drain in their ditch, written of course, AFTER their engineers review your drawings, look at the site, and produce THEIR official drawings to go with yours. Have the proposed site inspected to ensure that you are not going to alter some critter's habitat. Purchase the work permits. Have the empty ditch inspected. Have the rock fill and pipe installation inspected. Have the final product inspected. Have any changes documented and submitted to the original engineer so that "AS-Built" plans can be generated. Submit the original and as-builts to the county for records. This is all for drainage. Lord help you if you are actually working with a sanitary sewer. For this you would add another engineer or two, a few more permits, a few more inspections. Figure a few thousand US dollars to get to the point where you could actually start up the digger and start work.

idea - you should be raising the center of the road, not skimming to fill. Maybe when you are done, lay a layer over the center of the road to make it a little high in the center and then the water will run off the sides and hopefully help to keep the road dry - just thinking outloud. good luckj.

Beautifully done!

I wouldn`t have worried about the water, once the drain is in the water will be gone. If you were concerned about the sides collapsing, then complete that part first with the pipe sticking out the ground at the end of the trench. And geo textile, Terram or similar, is the way to go. I built 300 houses in a place called New Springs, any time we broke ground , water appeared. I wore wellies every day for two years! All drainage, foul, surface and french drains, as well as all other services, were laid in trenches that were nearly always full of ground water. That was thirty odd years ago, if I`d tried pumping every trench, I`d still be there today! Love watching your vids mate, that is some refurb project!

Quality as usual Carl and you make it all look like parting with lego for us plebs LOL

Another big job well done. Did it help as you hoped for?

Nice work Carl .... more videos soon 👍👍👍

Where would we be without our mini pele! You certainly worked hard on that project, are you going to resurface the drive with more castine to get the level up ?

Hello Carl, I follow your projects. You make a good job! I wondered how you do all the work like the roof and the combination of the French Regulations or the Government. Can you say something about that?

This french drain would have done the job admirably WITHOUT the pipe. the stones are more than capable of draining away the water and they're pretty much self cleaning with every storm they take!

I live in the States but the house and property your on is amazing from what I have seen so far.

I could watch you work all day but I’d better go walk the dog. Great video!

Just watched, it's been a year, how's the drain doing? Performing as expected? Thanks.

Great job, but you should've packed your corrugated pipe with geotextile. Now sand can clog it up and with the textile, the sand couldn't penetrate your pipe. How many days did your back hurt? 😉

Still like the gate you guy’s built, great job

Ah yes, the easiest DIY solution involving a digger, a truck, and a trailer that all us DIYers have readily available.

If only all were done to this standard. Well done. Done once and minimum maintenance, soil loss and mess.

You should really have put some geo-textile "Bidim" over the stone before putting soil back, otherwise soil will wash down through the stones an eventually block the drain holes in the pipe.

Drainage problem likely caused by what looks to be clayey soils.

I'm no expert on this but weren't you meant to line the Trench with Drainage Fabric to prevent Soil from washing through into the Drainage Pipe and eventually Clogging it with Dirt?

This is the next job at my house where we have ground water continually running through the basement. Great video and the comments.

Great job, well done

I would have put a camber on the drive and had shallow ditches, what your doing is more to do with removing ground water from the side of a building to help with damp rather than removing rainwater. That said I hope it works 👍

There’s something very satisfying about watching somebody else do all the hard work! Whereabouts are you in France? Near Tarbes?

Watching your truck going out is like the “I make a new one” from My Mechanics

I was waiting for you to use landscape fabric on top of the pipe ! It dosent work and gets blocked up with mud and soil :I know this through experience ; Although the holes in pipe will eventualy get blocked Good work, but a concrete chanel would last longer ! What you think Again good work

Great job, Crowning the driveway would also help.

It was a mistake not placing the stone and the pipe in filter fabric. Considering the soil type in that drive you should also have installed laterals into the main line to keep the drive drained.

Nice little project! 👍🏻

I am EXHAUSTED watching this! GREAT JOB!

I see your work, you love, I wish you good luck, I work as a master of internal repair work, sometimes you need to come up with something new 👍✌️✌️✌️

Love that little excavator.

"Whenever it rains, water runs down the driveway gouging deep cuts..." - you said it! A French drain like this removes sub-surface water, not surface run-off, especially if you then plug the top of the trench by re-filling on top of the gravel with the excavated clay. You need to camber the road, put some angled cross drainage and a cement side flume. And you need to deal with the discharge end on the (public?) road, either with a ditch excavated along the upside to the next lowest drainage point, or preferably a culvert under the road to the downside. This is just going to pond water in the road sub-bed and destroy it. I won't even go into the issue of too thick a gravel layer below the pipe (which will, cause constant static saturation below the pipe), failure to line the ditch or top the gravel with fabric, to install clean-cut (stand pipes), or to cap the pipe ends. 10:1 your road will still wash out and you'll be digging the whole lot up in three years. Great carpentry and tiling though, which is what I came got. Keep it up!

Hi Carl, whats the brand of the little pump at 14.05?

Why is it that every time you try to dig a holes or do concreet work out side it rains it never fails that at least for me. You did it right by doing a section at a time. I realy like your place my friend.

That was a very therapeutic short not to mention the good work l have subscribed

Another entertaining video, but for sure those tree roots will eventually find their way inside the pipe and clog the system. Good for short term solution, though.

Сколько у вас стоит метр дренажной трубы?

as soon as you put that pipe in I was thinking oh no, hes not wrapping it.

Oh! That a lot of work! Good job.

Un fortunately I think you will find you have not gone deep enough the first ute/ truck that cuts the corner in the wet, is going to drive over your pipe and flatten it. Hope I'm wrong,, you have done a real pretty job

Il est préférable de faire un " chaussette drainante " en posant un géotextile qui jouera le rôle d'anticontaminant .

Чаще выпускай видео🎥🎬👀. Смотрю постоянно...

I always enjoy your videos.

oh wow that river rock mustve been crazy expensive, its lovely though.

O lucrare corectă! Direct like 👍

You should line the trench with the correct type of geotextile, before putting the gravel in. This stops the gravel mixing with the silt and clay, which will clog it up in no time ! You should almost fill the trench, with the pipe in place, then fold the textile over the top with some more gravel on top just to hide it and protect it. This is the correct method, I'm afraid. What you did will work for a while I hope, but it's not a 'proper job' !!!

You should take a look at the American diggers with hands free bucket attachment plus they have thumbs so you can pick things up 😉😁

The pipe will plug unless the ends are wrapped.

That looks like a great place to use a metal detector

Was there a drain you tapped into beside the road?

Nice to see this tracked vehicle in france - it is its natural habitat. 😁

Interesting, how long main road foundation (near drain end) will stay solid without coverage collapse.

Huge job done. But the end of drainage can undermine Your road in future be aware of it ☝🏼. Water can not disappear. If it can not suck in it will continue to the field across the road

This was an important Video for me THX for shareing.

❣ Great job ❣

It's only a real French drain if it comes from the southwest region of France. Otherwise it's just sparkling water management. I know I'm a year late on this comment, but I just had to.

After all that hard work, he must feel drained.

I love the little clips you added in So funny

Have done this twice. The second time we put grated gutters _across_ the drive catching water and directing it to the drain. The first effort, without them, the water just carried on going down the drive, carrying the surface with it! You live and learn, they say. They also say, f*** the f******* French f****** drain! At least, we said that. Quite a lot. 😀

mistake #4 - no textile covering the pipe

What a superb job.

Не знаю как у вас там в гидрологическом плане обстоят дела , но тебе не кажется что дорогу будет размывать в месте где выходит твой дренаж???

Qual a finalidade desse projeto?

VENT needed on such a long run and pretty sure SEDIMENT will block it as it seems tohave low spots

A tipp for the next time loade heavy stuff like rocks... in the back lighter things in front

Shouldn't the drainage go under street little road to the field to flow down to the little river... can the ground at the end absorb enough?

좋은 영상 잘봤어요

great video...

Sorry Carl but this was a lot of work for nothing. Your drain isn't connected to an outlet such as a surface water drain or culvert, it doesn't even discharge onto open land. All drains need to discharge somewhere. As your drive doesn't appear to slope towards the drain it isn't going to catch much water anyway. Your drive is constructed with what we term as unbound material, ie, loose hardcore and running water will always erode this type of surface. Try reshaping the drive so it falls towards the drain and maybe slow the flow with a couple of break-waters constructed with Kerbs with a slight upstand sloping towards the drain at an angle will help, but the water still has nowhere to go at the bottom? Somebody mentioned using a geo textile fleece such as Terram T1000, this is in my opinion is debatable as the fleece itself can clog with fines. Better still, one day, utilise the hardcore on the drive as a sub base for a bound surface ( tarmac, concrete, block paving, sets etc.) and you wont have the erosion issue. I hope you see this advice as constructive, you are a grafter and there's nowt wrong with that in my book. Btw, that oak gate you made was superb👍

I found that quite Draining !

Always work with water flow from the bottom up so it will always drain away any water

But your carpenter skills are wonderful! By now (2 years ago) your drainage pipe is probably clogged

finally new video :D

Just found your channel, pretty lit , beautiful country side 😁

I need this blokes detergent or secret - not once did that super fly white t-shirt get a speck of dirt on it. If it were me I would have been covered in mud by the third minute

Great job 👏

Mate - lots of work going on there so good onya. Have to say though that the drainage system you built there is to deal with excess ground water. The problem (as I understand it) is that you have erosion of your drive surface from excess surface water run off. Your solution would work for a boggy drive. Not so much for run off. What you needed to do was create an open gutter or culvert on one side of the drive and camber your drive into it. If run off is still excessive you can create some ruts at a diagonal to feed water into the culvert. You will have some bumps. If you don’t want a cambered drive or ruts you can cut some channels diagonally across the drive at intervals feeding into the gutter. You can get grids to run over the channels so you can drive over them. They’ll need a clean out every so often but you won’t have to keep repairing your road surface. You’ll see this a gazillion miles of unsealed roads in Australia..... Anyway I hope I’m wrong and you don’t have any more problems.

Is that baughman drain tile?

I am amazed that even works at all. By back filling the trench with heavy clay soil on top, most of the surface run off won’t be penetrating down to the pipe. Should have filled to the top with pebbles. …and where the pipe terminates there will be a huge waterlogged patch flooding out over the road…which I’m surprised the local authority allowed., but I’m no drainage expert, so I guess if it works….

а потом весь асфальт сползет с дороги...